Paul's sprinter

Not so long ago I visited Paul, a Norton enthousiast if ever you've seen one. Paul owns a very nice vintage Norton sprinter. He has had it for a while but no one has been able to tell what it is exactly; which provided a challenge for Simon and what following are Simon's ideas about the bike after spending hours going through the Norton works records:

"The frame is almost certainly from a 1930 M18 or M19. Regretfully, the exact number has not yet been found in the works records but assuming the framenumber was not invented by a previous owner it must be from 1930 as the adjacent numbers are from well into 1930. It is not a speedway frame, as these are very different. The '588' stamped above the framenumber indicates that a longer downtube was used to enable fitting of the taller M19 engine, when required. 

The bottom half of the engine is standard ES2 and was despatched from the works in June 1928. These engines used the same dry sump systems as the CS1 of that period, and were fitted with steel flywheels, with a 22mm timing side mainshaft and a 1" drive side mainshaft. Cams were of different design to those used in the M18s etc., in 1929, and apart from having a higher lift, are of the same design as those used in the 1930 engines with enclosed pushrods and cast alloy rocker box.

Moving on to the top half, the barrel started life on a Model 20, from January 1930. The head is very late 1930 or 1931, and can be recognized because the inlet port is angled to the right. Through-bolts are fitted to hold barrel and head to cranckcase. A useful modification but one which cannot be done with the older M18 engines as the head studs and barrel base nuts on these models don't line up. However, on the 1930 M20 and 1931 engines, the stud pitch is the same on head and barrel and the through-bolt modification is possible. The rocker box is a 1930/1931 M20 item although considerably cut down.

The carb as fitted is a type 27 Amal and probably started life fitted to a speedway JAP engine. The gearbox looks like a type III or IV Sturmey Archer, both of which were put on the market in 1930"

Well, in addition I can say the bike has a BTH KD1 magneto, a 'floating' arrangement for the primary drive and it has a seriously high compression.

And it sounds great and goes very well; Paul reckons this one of the fastest vintage Nortons he has ever ridden; click this link to see the YouTube movie!

The question that remains is off course is: Who built it? It looks very similar to a bike built by the legendary Pat Driscoll; however (quoting simon again):

"Driscoll never used this type of frame. He certainly fitted ES2 engines to some of his bikes so his efforts may have been the inspiration for this bike. Driscoll used special flat tank frames with rear set footrests and in some cases longer rear stays."

Assembling the Sturmey Archer gearbox

Your flat tank Norton will be fitted with a Sturmey Archer three speed gearbox similar to the one in the pics. Dismantling and reassembly is fairly straightforward. Mine had to be dismantled because of 'funny noises' that could be traced to a broken bush that is meant to dislodge the kickstarter ratchet. While I was at it I found that a few bearings needed replacement. Most notably, the sleeve gear mainshaft bearing that consists of 'two cups and a double cone' was worn out.

Reassembly starts with fitting the new sleeve gear mainshaft bearing; thoroughly heat the gearbox casing and insert the 'double cone'. Then stick the balls (20 for each cup) in each cup using a lot of grease. Some juggling will result in fitting the whole set including the sleeve gear in the gearbox casing. (My bearing was brand new and a modern replica that does not need adjustment; traditionally these bearings would contain shims between the cups to get the adjustment right and the recommended way to compensate for wear was to remove a shim. Often discarded, some boxes may still contain a thin pressed steel cover which pushes on to the outer end of the bearing and is secured by centre punching it into the three dimples in the outside of the bearing)

Then fit the chainwheel, first fitting a felt washer saturated with heavy oil, to keep the dirt out and the oil in. Fit the large nut and pull really tight; don't be tempted to slacken this nut in order to be able to fit the retaining plate on the outside of the chainwheel; this nut also retains the correct play on the sleeve gear mainshaft bearing and a loose nut will wreck the bearing!

Then temporarily fit the layshaft into the box. Your box may contain a spring washer to limit end float of this shaft. Otherwise fit shims or a spacer to limit layshaft end float. The shaft should have about 0.1 mm play once the endcover is fitted. The spring washer or the shims should be next to the bearing in the endcover.

Remove the layshaft again. Fit the bronze thrust washer that needs to be 7/32" thick or close to it and temporarily fit the mainshaft and endcover. Float is adjusted by placing shims between the clutchworm and the bearing; pushing the bearing 'in' results in less float; about 0.1 mm float is required.

Remove the mainshaft, fit all the gearwheels to the shafts and simply insert the lot in the box, making sure the gear plate bosses engage with the shift fork ends. Fit the endcover and the small cover nuts that should have washers underneath to prevent the hexagon heads chewing the cover.

My box had a crack in the alloy boss that supports the kickstart. I solved this by making a steel bush that fits tightly over the boss. Make sure it's very thin otherwise it will break the kickstart return spring.

Twister????

Lady Rides A Lot recently posted about a twister photo that was Photo Shopped, or something. Anyway it was not an original. I said it was cool anyway. I do love twisters. At least I'm fascinated by them. Here is a link to her post. ... Peek A Boo!

I did take some photos this winter that I have not touched, or altered in any way. They are genuine. They are of a cloud formation in the middle of winter, temps below freezing, and look just like a twister. The photos were taken from my neck of the woods.

Here are my pictures....

Enfield hub bearings

Your late vintage Norton will be fitted with Enfield hubs. At the rear there will be a bolt-on brake drum and a vane type cush drive for the rear sprocket. Enfield front hubs, with rather ineffective braking ability, were also fitted. Typically, these hubs contain "bicycle type" cup and cone bearings (see the two pics on top). Correctly adjusted and well lubricated they will last a very long time but as few people bother to lubricate their wheel bearings you will most likely find them worn beyond further use.

The first option is to try and locate a new set of cups and cones though this may not be easy as no one I know of stocks them. A faster way out may be to fit more modern alternatives.

Enfield hubs employed by some other manufacturers in the late twenties and thirties were fitted with two unsealed single row ball races MJ5/8 (R and M designation). Alternative designations for the same bearing are MS7 (Hoffman) or RMS5 (Skefco). The outside diameter of their races is 1.8125” (1 13/16” or 46.038 mm). These bearings are still available and may be obtained from your local supplier.

With use of modern bearing adhesives you can fit a pair of these MJ5/8 bearings to your Norton's hubs, after first turning up a suitable spindle and spacer. The hub as used by Norton in most cases is of a larger outside diameter than the MJ5/8 at 1.815” to 1.818” (46.101 to 46.177 mm) and therefore a drop of Loctite is required to fit them properly. Alternatively, sealed metric bearings of type 6204 can be used of which the 47mm outside diameter is ground down to 46.101 to 46.177 mm.

During the thirties another solution was available in that both Timken and SKF produced taper roller bearings of which the outside diameter of the outer race was also 1 13/16” and the inner race was conveniently threaded 9/16” x 20 TPI, the same as that of the regular wheel spindles used by Norton. These taper roller races can be used as direct replacements for the original cups and cones. That is, if you can find them and if you are willing to pay, as they will be expensive. Incidentially, the rear wheel of my M18 is fitted with a Japanese version of the same bearings (bottom pics), the reference can be seen in lower pic. The reference numbers of the older taper rollers appear to have been:
Outer, 1.8125” x 0.565” 1129X (Timken) or 2K-1129X (SKF). Inner, threaded 9/16” x 20, with flats for adjustment: F1175XL (Timken) or 1201799 (SKF). Inner, threaded 9/16” x 20, for fixed position on spindle: F1174XL (Timken).

(All info provided by Simon; thanks!)

Old School, Old skool, or should we just say Olds Kool, Fulmer V2 Helmet review-- Crash and Burn Stories-- Marathon Post.

Be prepared to take a few minutes. Unlike my usual style of posting, this one isn't short. If you don't have time for a longer read, come back later. I reveal a lot here. Part of which has been a public secret until now.

This post is about my quest for the perfect helmet, and stories of why this quest has come to be, more than once, and why I find it so difficult.

Minnesota has a Limited helmet law. If you are under your learner's permit, you must wear a helmet. If you are under 18 years of age, you must wear a helmet. If neither apply to you, it is your choice. (Funny because we have a mandatory seatbelt law in a car(cage) with airbags. Go figure.

When I had my motorcycle learner's permit, I had a black full faced helmet. It was a Fulmer.

I hated wearing this thing with a burning passion. I couldn't wait to ditch it. I got my motorcycle endorsement, and of course, ditched the helmet.

I rode most of my riding years without a helmet. Then I got into a car accident. I was going through an intersection. I was in the right hand through lane. There was no turn lane here, and lady made a last minute right hand turn from the left lane into my bike. I was ejected, and was hurled through the air like Superman. She was in a Suburban, and said she didn't see me. Regardless, she made a turn from the wrong lane. I totaled that bike. I was injured pretty bad, and couldn't walk for about a month. I should have sued her ass, but I was too young, too naive, and I'm not the suing type of person. That accident freaked me out bad. I was also too new of a motorcycle rider to realize just how bad the motorcycle riding bug had bit me. I swore, I'd never ride again. I got married after that, and it wasn't too long before I couldn't hear, or watch another motorcycle going down the road without having to turn my head as they passed by to watch them with envy in my gaze. This went on for quite some time. My wife could see it was slowly killing me, and making me not the person she met, or married. We jointly agreed that I could get another motorcycle, but I had to wear a helmet. I agreed. I got another bike, I got another helmet. This time a Bell half shell DOT approved helmet. Since I've never ridden with a windshield, and never will, I refer to these DOT half helmets as (kites, or wind catchers if you will). I also have a small head, and am not a really big guy, so I looked like Marvin the Martian wearing it. Mushroom head is what some people like to call it. I F'n hated that thing so bad, it made me not want to ride if I had to wear it. Gradually, I stopped wearing it, and gradually, my wife begrudgingly accepted that I was going to ride, and I was going to do it without a helmet on my head.

Years passed, and I got in another minor accident. This time it was my fault. Too much speed, not enough time to slow. I slid, then high sided, and was ejected. (Stupid rookie mistake). Guess I should have taken those advanced rider courses. Needless to say, I survived. The bike was fixed, and I continued to ride without a helmet.

Last summer, July 20th, 2008, to be exact was a riding, life changing day for me. I have not spoke of this on my blog until this post. I got in a pretty scary motorcycle accident. Again my fault. (By the way, That you tube Video I just posted of Custom Paint repair techniques was my own bike getting repaired after my crash from last summer. I healed, and had the bike made "ready to ride" so I could ride the rest of the season, then had it fixed for real this last winter. It was in the shop until early- to mid Spring.)

Anyway, back to the crash...

I was planning on heading down to our family cabin, which is about an hour and a half south of my house. It was going to be a beautiful ride, and when I got there I was going to mow the lawn, and maybe wet a line and see if some fish were biting, then visit my folks on the way home. I only made it about 15 minutes south of my house before the possibly near fatal moment happened. I was traveling Southbound on Interstate 35W, and getting ready to exit onto State Highway 10. The exit ramp off the freeway- entrance ramp onto 10 basically just takes up the shoulder. There is no other room for this ramp. Thusly, within inches of the outside white line alongside the ramp is a guard rail. I was traveling the speed limit on the freeway at 70 MPH, and slowing just slightly for the exit, so going approximately 65 MPH, hugging the right side of the lane by the guard rail. I must have ran over something metal, because I heard a metal clanging sound, and I looked down and to my left to see what it was. I counter-steered just enough to scrape the guard rail, then bounce off of it, and down I went at about 65 MPH. I had no helmet, and was wearing only jeans, T-shirt, and boots. I slid across the pavement on my back , my side, and my right arm. Luckily I had a Grab-it Pack on, and It took the brunt of the slide on my side. I got nasty road rash on my back and my right arm. The arm by the elbow was ground almost to the bone and the knuckles on my right hand WERE down to the bone. As I slid down the road, I remember consciously thinking to myself as I was scraping the guard rail, that this can't be happening. This is like a F'n nightmare! And then I thought (excuse my French), "OH FUCK, I'M GOING TO DIE!" Then came the pavement, and the slide. My next two thoughts were "keep the head up. & Please God don't let my head hit the pavement." I stopped, and couldn't believe I was alive. I could not believe what had just happened. I could not believe no one ran over me. I couldn't believe what my arm and my hand looked like. It took a while for the pain to kick in due to the adrenaline, and partial shock. After a while it was pretty extreme, but I knew I'd have to deal with it. I had no choice. Moment's later people came to help get the bike out of the road, and make sure I was O.K. I thanked them all for stopping. I was lucky in a sense that this was a busy road, because what had happened to me did not go

unnoticed. I tried to use my cell phone to make a call to my wife, and tow truck, but my cell phone was in the Grab-it Pack, and was crushed from the impact. A short while later a State Trooper arrived on the scene to help me. He was a great guy, and rides motorcycles himself. He was compassionate, helpful, kind, and caring. I used to have a grudge against most cops in general, till this moment. I realized that they aren't all out there to "nab" us and give us tickets, but that they can, and will also help in a time of need. (By the way. I have a quote that says..." May all your encounters with the law start with the words, "Nice Harley!") Yeah, he said it.

The tow truck came, I actually helped him load my bike on the flat bed, and rode home with him to my house, and dropped off the bike there. It was a day the bike shop was closed. My wife was home when the tow truck backed up the drive. She saw me, and thought at first that my bike just broke down or something until I hopped out the cab of the tow truck and she saw all the road rash. I said at that point, "Yeah, I'll wear a helmet now. " She never even asked me to stop riding, ever. Bless her heart. The one time I declared I would stop riding, I said it on my own free will. Stupid me. What was I thinking. While recovering, people would ask me, "Are you going to stop riding?", That's like asking someone who doesn't ride, who has had an asthma attack, are you going to stop breathing? My response... "I'll stop riding when they bury me." Motorcycle accidents suck. Don't get me wrong. For those of you who have never had one, I hope you never do. For those of you who have, and continue to ride. You know what I'm saying. For those of you who have crashed, and gave it up. Well I guess the riding bug never bit you as hard as it bit me. I've ridden more years than not. It's not just something I do, It is part of who I am.

Needless to say, I did say I'd wear a helmet now, so this brings me to my quest again for the perfect helmet. Mind you, riding without a windshield makes a huge difference on what you can and can't wear comfortably without feeling like you head is going to be torn off at anything over 55 MPH.

I hate full face, so that was out. I hate mushroom head, so that limited my choices. I bought two different Novelty style half helmets, and thy didn't fit very well, and were made poorly so all they did was shift, and catch wind. These suck! IMO. Add them to the collection of worthless helmets. So let the quest continue.

This spring I was at the annual Spring Flood Run and took some pictures. Remember that Old Skool chopper? It had an old skool helmet hanging off the handle bars. I thought to myself "That ain't so bad. I might be able to wear one of those." It looked pretty cool, and might just be the ticket. So I did some research on line. I found a Fulmer 3/4 open face Old skool bobber style helmet that IS DOT approved! It is low profile, fits nicely, looks cool, no mushroom head, and is I believe the ticket for me. It is very hard to find a perfect helmet if you can't test ride with them, so I believe many of you also have a collection of helmets you don't use. I did a lot of research before going out and buying one of these. It does fit snugly, does vent-breathe, is extremely lightweight,, and has very little drag, (even at 80 MPH!) and comes with a snap on visor, and you can purchase optional bubble facemask. You won't find them in most stores. You have to go to a dealer that sells Fulmer helmets, have your head measured, and special order it. I've had mine for a few weeks now, and I love it. I had to buy riding goggles though because the helmet changes the course of wind flow by your eyes, so shades don't work so well, unless you don't mind dry watery eyes. The color selections are fabulous! Since it's 3/4, it can be warm. This can be good and bad. I guess it depends on the weather. If you are into old skool, this might just be the ticket for you!

If you want to see pictures of them, read other reviews, etc., just Google "Fulmer V2 helmet".

This will bring up lots more information. By the time I was done researching, reading great reviews, etc., I was 99% sold on this helmet. All that was left was to see someone with it on. Since I couldn't find one at a store, I couldn't find out what they looked like on my head. I had to rely on the internet for this. So I searched for images of it. I did have a problem finding pictures of people actually wearing the helmet. Everyone showed pictures of the helmets, but I wanted to see for myself if the claim of "No mushroom head" held any merit. I was only able to find one YouTube video of a guy wearing it while riding that sold me on it. I figured for anyone interested, here is a couple of pics of me with it on my noggin.

LOOK MA, NO MUSHROOM HEAD!

Leaf spring chopper sculpture

While working, and at one of my companies client's house, my co-worker and I got to take a peek at our client's workshop in the back yard where he makes fanciful things like custom made pens, wine bottle stoppers, and Oh yeah, a leaf spring chopper. How cool is this thing!

I love the Diamond plate for the headlight.

Yeah, I know I look like a dork sitting on it, but I couldn't resist!

I asked him if he ever thought about making them and selling them at bike shows, and he said yes, but that would be work. He's retired, and just likes to do things once, and sit back and enjoy them.

I envy this guy!

Pushrod springs for sale

I've had a batch of conical pushrod springs made. They are the same size and strength as those fitted to my 1928 M18 but do check first whether they'll fit your engine! Contact me if you need one: 12 euro each to cover expenses.

Biker Wannabe Cartoon

Cartoon

Unlikely; a flat tank 16H will run forever!

Bill's Manx

Bill (in the picture) bought his ex-Reg Dearden 350cc Manx Norton from a chap in Yorkshire in the early 1970 for the sum of 30 pounds. He used it on the road and to race untill it broke at a time when spares were impossible to find.

He must have enjoyed it. Reg Dearden was a famous tuner with a very remarkable Isle of Man record for by the end of 1961 his bikes had won 186 TT and Manx Grand Prix awards. Dearden believed that many of his best results had come as the result of mistakes. At one time, Geoff Duke bent an inlet valve of one of his Manx models in the final practice lap; no spares being available, Dearden grabbed a hammer and spent all night tapping the valve untill it was straight. He got the engine running and despite the worst start in Duke's life the Manx engine went like a rocket, with the result that Duke overtook all riders to score one of his most popular wins. (The Manx Norton - Mick Walker)

Beatrice Shilling

Beatrice Shilling became famous for two things. First, as a university-trained engineer she solved a serious problem with the carburettors of Rolls-Royce Merlin-engined fighters such as the Spitfire and the Hurricane. Acrobatic maneuvres with these planes resulted in fuel starvation and engine cutouts, a serious drawback when chasing -or being cased by- a Messerschmitt Bf109. Beatrice solved the problem by fitting a restrictor in the fuel line, aptly named "Miss Shilling's Orifice".

Second, she knew how to fettle and race a cammy Norton and proved so be lapping the Brooklands track at 106 mph on the M30 prepared by herself, earning herself the Brookland Gold Star in the process. She raced and won from professional riders such as Noel Pope on his supercharged Brough Superior.

Her Norton in the picture above, taken in 1935, is a very standard-looking 490cc M30. It may date from as early as 1932 as the engine does not contain the distinct oilfilter bolt in the bottom of the bevel chamber. Also, the gearbox predates 1935. The crankcases do look a bit dark to me; they may be made from the magnesium-based alloy "Electron" or they may just be dirty. No trick International parts like a narrow front forks or an Andree steering damper are fitted and the engine still has the coil valve springs instead of hairpins. The fuel tank does not seem to fit properly and may have been replaced. Unfortunaly it is not clear whatever it is she did with the engine to make it go that fast though it looks like the inlet tract is longer than standard.

Beatrice raced her M30 untill 1939, at one time even fitting a supercharger. With the declaration of war racing ended at Brooklands and the Norton was returned to a road machine to become Beatrice's chief means of transport for the next fourteen years. (More reading on Beatrice: Google for the book by Matthew Freudenberg)

Breaking into a formation

I recently was asked my opinion on what I thought about breaking into the line of a biker formation with a car. Meaning when a group of motorcyclists is riding in staggered formation, clearly riding together as a group, has a car merge into the formation. The person who asked me used to ride, so he does have a clue, and does respect bikers. He said he was following about 15 bikers riding staggered formation, on a long winding hilly road. The group of riders was going about 5 M.P.H. under the speed limit for a very long time, and were holding up quite a line of traffic behind them. It was a difficult road to pass, with little opportunities to do so. He said there were four other cars in front of him, and the opportunity came to pass, and as a group of 5 cars, they all went to pass the biker group. He said just as the other four cars made it, a vehicle was coming around the next curve, and he realized he was not going to make it. He said he could not merge back into traffic behind the group, because he was so close to the front already, and would hit the oncoming car head on if he waited that long to fall back. He said he had no choice but to turn on his right turn signal, and pray that the group of bikers would let him merge into their formation. They did, and he did. He said not so much by either of their choice, but it had to be done. He felt they would understand, and give him a break, and as first opportunity would come, he would let them resume without him in their line up. The lead biker (Lets say Road Captain) Freaked the Fuck out. (He could not confirm if this was a HOG organization, or MC, or just casual group of friends riding together. He said he thought the latter, as no one had on any colors. Anyway, the leader would not let him pass. Would not let him do anything. Every time he went to get out of there the biker sped up, and got in front of him and slowed way down to like 30 in a 55 M.P.H, zone, furthering the traffic delay they were creating in the first place. He said this went on for about 15 miles or so, before he finally turned off. I said etiquette wise, probably not wise to break biker formation. Consider it one unit, like a really long truck. Watch as most times at an intersection if a group is riding in formation, they will proceed through an intersection as if they were one vehicle. I did mention that the lead biker sounds like he had his undies in a bunch though. I would have given the guy a break.

What do you think?